Published on 15/02/2005
www.newsandstar.com
MAN cannot live by bread alone – but
he can have a lot of fun trying. The British
male is evolving from breadwinner to breadmaker
and is largely responsible for a dramatic
rise in sales of home-baking machines to
a point where around one in six UK households
now has one.
Just as they like to be in charge of
the barbecue, many men have an innate
need to bake bread. Perhaps it is something
to do with their hunter-gatherer genes.
And such is the sophistication of modern
breadmakers that male bakers know that,
providing they follow the instructions,
their loaf will be perfect – unlike
those cremated summer sausages.
No self-respecting single male these
days would admit to being without a third-generation
mobile phone or a state-of-the-art breadmaker
with crust control, nut and raisin dispenser,
jam cycles and enhanced raising times.
While I had the former, I was somewhat
lacking in the dough department, so I
decided to recruit the help of Carrs Flour
Mills, who have learned a thing or two
about sorting the wheat from the chaff
since Jonathan Dodgson Carr set up its
Silloth mill in 1831.
Caroline Dale, Carrs’ marketing
manager at the company’s head office
in Stanwix, Carlisle, loaned me a Panasonic
SD253, regarded as the Ferrari of breadmakers.
This sleek machine, which retails at
just under £100, can do just about
anything. Put it this way, bakers would
go out of business if we all had one.
Honestly, I swear it would make you a
cup of tea if you asked it nicely.
The SD253 has 18 bread programmes, a
digital timer so that you can wake to
the aroma of baking bread, a rapid-bake
option and can make loaves of up to 2.2lb.
Its bread repertoire includes basic white,
brown, wholewheat, French, Italian, sandwich,
gluten-free, cakes and teabreads. It will
also prepare dough for more specialised
items such as pizza, naan bread, pitta
bread and croissants.
The real beauty of breadmakers is that
the most tiresome element of baking –
kneading – is done for you. There
aren’t even any dishes to wash because
the pre-programmed cycle all takes place
in the same pan.
Sensing my anxiety about my first foray
into the baking world, Caroline offered
some words of reassurance.
“Breadmakers need the minimum of
effort, but you get out what you put in,”
she says.
“If you use rubbish flour, you
will get rubbish bread. I would say 90
per cent of using a breadmaker is the
quality of flour.
“As millers, we do a lot of work
with breadmaker manufacturers. Initially,
we were knocking on their doors but now
they want to use Carrs Breadmaker Flour
because it is the best and the only flour
sold in the UK that is specifically made
for use in domestic breadmakers.
“Sales of breadmakers really shot
up a couple of years ago but have now
reached a plateau. People have started
trading up now to more expensive makes
and making bread is very popular with
the healthy-eating set.
“Breadmakers are very popular with
men. I did hear that one bloke had devised
a recipe for breakfast bread containing
egg, bacon and sausages.”
I also went on to the internet to see
what Delia Smith, the queen of home cooking,
had to say about these space-age machines.
Delia is very complimentary about how
breadmakers have opened up “a very
pleasurable and sometimes therapeutic
experience” to the masses.
She says: “It’s quite simply
an outstanding invention, almost miraculous,
when you think that a freshly baked, crusty,
full-flavoured loaf can be delivered to
you warm from baking after just a simple
assembly of ingredients and the push of
a button.
“Even with your pressured, busy
life, your house can be filled with that
unique aroma of yeasty earthiness and
goodness. That simple pleasure can raise
your life experience to another level.
“The good thing about a breadmaker
is producing bread with no additives from
the best-quality flours. Carrs Flour Mills,
the clever people who invented sauce flour,
have developed a range of high-quality
mixes specifically designed to be used
in breadmakers.”
Despite Queen Delia’s endorsement,
I still felt apprehensive as I read the
SD253 instruction manual. It is like using
any new gadget – you are entering
the unknown and have to build up your
confidence.
Eager to avoid the embarrassment of my
dough failing to rise, I chose the most
simple recipe – a white loaf –
and noted that just by pressing the start
button my loaf would be baked by the basic
programme, producing an extra large loaf
with a medium crust in four hours.
The breadmaker comes with a useful measuring
device for water and the smaller ingredients,
so it was easy to assemble 320ml of water,
one tablespoon of sugar, half a teaspoon
of salt and one teaspoon of fast-action
yeast.
But how much is 25g of butter? I guessed
at about a tablespoon. You really need
kitchen scales to weigh 500g of flour,
but as I had a 1.5kg pack of Carrs Breadmaker
Strong White Flour, I reasoned, with a
mathematician’s brain, that I would
need one-third of the pack.
I switched on the machine. Nothing seemed
to happen. I became anxious but was comforted
by reading that the initial process is
called ‘resting’. It seemed
a bit premature to be taking a rest but
I was feeling more confident after about
an hour when I heard noises. This was
the kneading.
After 30 minutes’ kneading, the
dough rises for one hour and 50 minutes
before the best stage – the baking
– takes up the last 50 minutes.
A delicious smell started wafting out
of my kitchen and, like a father-to-be
in a maternity ward, I started pacing
the kitchen waiting for the beep to signal
that the loaf was ready.
When it happened, I nervously opened
the lid to see a perfectly formed loaf
with a lovely crust. Better still, it
tasted better than any bread I have ever
had. And all my own work.

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